Sunday, December 18, 2011: Updated Saturday August 4, 2012
EV Winter Problems and Solutions
Driving an electric vehicle, you have
to be aware of the weather conditions. While I can comfortably drive
the 40 mile round trip to work and back when it is warm outside, in the
winter time, my batteries are not as cooperative. Cold batteries can
reduce the normal range of an electric vehicle by 30% or more. I have
gotten around this for the most part by insulating the batteries and
insulating my garage (what a mess I made but it was worth it in the
end).
At the beginning of the week,
after my truck has sat all weekend in the garage without any regular
charging, the batteries are approaching 45 degrees.
This doesn't cause
too much problem on the way to work but after the truck has sat in the
parking lot at work for 10 hours, the batteries have dropped even lower
in temperature. The drive home on the first work day of the week is an
anxious one. I watch the volt meter very closely. 120, 115, 110, 105
volts.
Once the under-load voltage drops to 100 Volts, I know I have
less than 2 miles of range before it's game over. At that point, I have
to pull over and let the batteries rest for 10-15 minutes before I can
slowly drive the rest of the way home.
Every
other day of the week isn't a problem because charging the batteries up
the night before also heats them to 75 degrees or so. That is
sufficient so my truck can sit in the cold, exposed parking lot all day
and the batteries only drop to 58 degrees or so. I am still able to
make it home without any problems. But for me, that's not good enough.
Battery Warmer:
I
bought some ice melting cable, (the kind you string on your roof to
prevent ice dams and roof damage) and wrapped it around my batteries.
If my batteries are not warm enough, I can plug in the warming cable.
This allows me to warm up the batteries overnight without having to
over-charge them to create heat. Eventually, I want to connect this
cable up to a thermostat and wire it to the battery pack itself. At the
cost of a couple miles in range, the batteries will maintain
temperature all day at work and still have sufficient range that I can
make it home.
Truck Bed Cover:
I
originally wanted to build a super fancy, aerodynamic, teardrop shaped
truck bed cover, but that would not be very practical. I want one that
won't get in the way of me swinging by Home Depot on a whim for a couple
sheets of OSB. I compromised for a quick and dirty flat cover. Using
the last scraps of plastic, (from the sheet used for the air dam), I
hastily built a cover that could withstand an 80 mph head wind (freeway
driving conditions).
As luck
would have it, I drove to work the next day during some of the worst
winds that Davis County has seen in 20 years. As I drove southbound
through Centerville, through the high wind corridor, the 90-103 mph east
wind gusts made quick work of my truck bed cover, tearing half of it
off. Watching electrical transformers light up the early morning sky
while trying to avoid flying debris and rubberneckers looking at semi
trucks that had flipped over on I-15, I somehow made it in to work.
Here
is my sort-of-repaired bed cover. It does help reduce the wind drag
quite a bit. Wind is not partial to ugliness, only form.
Reducing Cold Induced Friction:
I
noticed in the winter time that on the way home from work, my current
draw is higher than on the way in to work. I have dismissed it in the
past assuming it is caused by a headwind or something.
I read that cold motor oil is thicker and will rob horsepower until the oil can heat up and reach its desired viscosity.
Another
EV driver in the Salt Lake area suggested to me that transmission/gear
oil is the same way. In a normal engine, the transmission heats up as
the engine heats up. This is because the bell housing of a transmission
is mechanically and thermal coupled to the engine. A hot engine will
yield a hot transmission. Thick gear oil is specified so that when the
engine warms up, the oil thins to its correct viscosity.
But in my truck, the electric
motor doesn't get hot like in a gas engine. Thick oil will remain
thick. I decided to replace the transmission and differential oil with
thinner oil. It is anyone's guess what the negative long term effects
will be of using thin motor oil as gear oil in a cool running electric
vehicle. I am willing to give it a try.
Initial Results:
I
started out by only replacing the differential oil before I drove my
electric truck to work the next morning. To my surprise, it reduced my
55mph current draw by 5 amps (from 100 amps to 95 amps). For a large
portion of my to-work commute, I was only pulling 75 amps at 55mph. I
suspect I had a tailwind and some traffic corridor wind in my favor as
well. But usually under these conditions the truck is pulling about 80
amps.
On my way home, I had so
much battery capacity remaining, I began to question the gauges. After a
recharge overnight, I was surprised that it only took 12.3KWh to charge
back up. I usually need 13KWH or more to drive 40 miles. Replacing
the 75W90 differential oil with 0W30 synthetic reduced my energy use
from 325KWh/mile to 308KWh/mile. That's a 5% reduction in energy use.
Wow! That is really surprising. I didn't expect it would make that
much difference.
The thin oil in the rear differential made a huge improvement. What about the transmission oil?
That evening, I changed out the 75W90 oil in the manual transmission case with some 5W30 that I had on hand. I didn't have any more 0W30 synthetic. The next day, I drove to work without any problems. Keep in mind the weather inversion in the Salt Lake valley (ironically caused by engine exhaust) maintains a depressing cloud cover and keeps the air temperatures in the high 20's and low 30's F all day long. On the way home, there was a 10-14mph headwind that caused my truck to pull about 115 Amps (at 55mph) from the batteries. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have any range issues and made it all the way home comfortably.
That evening, I changed out the 75W90 oil in the manual transmission case with some 5W30 that I had on hand. I didn't have any more 0W30 synthetic. The next day, I drove to work without any problems. Keep in mind the weather inversion in the Salt Lake valley (ironically caused by engine exhaust) maintains a depressing cloud cover and keeps the air temperatures in the high 20's and low 30's F all day long. On the way home, there was a 10-14mph headwind that caused my truck to pull about 115 Amps (at 55mph) from the batteries. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have any range issues and made it all the way home comfortably.
I recharged my
batteries that night, accidentally leaving them on for an extra couple
hours. It only took 12.7KWh. Not bad for driving in a headwind half
the time.
These are some really preliminary results so I must collect several more days worth of data.
Update: I could not reproduce these results every single day. It seems like the great improvements were only temporary. Perhaps, wishing to have better performance caused me to unconsciously drive more efficiently. While an increase in performance is quantified, it is not that much.
Concerned about potentially damaging the transmission by using regular lubricating/cooling oil (I don't fully understand the physical differences between gear oil and cooling/lubricating oil), I replaced it with Royal Purple Gear Oil. It is crazy expensive stuff but is designed specifically for manual transmissions. No degradation of performance noted.